1) Thramer ferrules are made from hard drawn tubing

2) Thramer ferrules are never machined from bar stock

3) Thramer ferrules are always designed into the rod taper - never 'added on'

4) Thramer ferrules always employ standards of construction based on generations of experience

On the Left You Can See the Basic Difference Between a #13 Swiss Ferrule Set on the Bottom and a #13 Leonard/Payne Style On the Top


The Leonard style set is smaller in diameter and flexes with the rod much better than the thicker wall Swiss set. This is an important design criteria often overlooked by other rodmakers. Very short swiss syle ferrules are an attempt to overcome the basic design of the swiss ferrule. I believe in working with the strengths and weaknesses of the ferrule instead of using odd and nontraditional designs to compensate for incorrect ferrule selection.

I believe that ferrules made from bar stock should be avoided for all high quality split cane rods. The process of machining the ferrules does not work harden the mating surfaces making them softer than those of hard drawn tubing and are more susceptible to damage from dirt, grit and wear. I have also seen problems with the wall of the female not being parallel, leading to a poor ferrule fit.

 I believe that a quality rod must be made using a set of ferrules that are constructed of hard drawn 18% nickel silver tubing, either deep drawn in the manner of many of the quality production rod makers such as Granger or South Bend or soldered from tube stock the way mine are in the traditional manner that Payne, Leonard and FE Thomas made theirs. Nothing has really changed in the last hundred years, it is still a craftsman at a lathe using diamond tipped tooling and a torch to assemble the component parts of the ferrules.


Hard Drawn 18% Nickel Silver

Ferrule Tubing

AJ Thramer Ferrules

What is the Difference and Why Should I Care?

There are Several Considerations When You Evaluate a Rods Ferrules - Here are a Few


I have conducted lengthy testing on a variety of ferrule designs. The results are what I use in determining which type of ferrule to use. A Leonard/Payne style ferrule flexes with the rod. A Swiss style ferrule is a distinct hard point in the taper and explains why some makers have resorted to using truncated and even ultra short Swiss ferrules to minimize the problem. The ferrule that interrupted the flow of the rods action the most was the tip over butt bamboo ferrule. I have not tested any of the new graphite or fiberglass ferrules.